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The drive from the Golden State Freeway north to the coast at Half Moon Bay is the kind that makes you marvel at living in California.

After the mind-numbing chase of the Cajon Pass and the Grapevine, the miles and miles of lonely, monochromatic cattle fields and the scattered truck stops of Buttonwillow and Firebaugh, a turn to the west on Highway 92 takes you on the scenic route through the town of San Mateo and over the waters of San Francisco Bay. Motor across the San Mateo Bridge and though the winding curves of the inspiring Purisima Redwood Preserve that separates Half Moon Bay from the world, and you’re there.

Along the way, roadside stands sprout like flowers, selling locally grown artichokes, greens, root vegetables, beans and herbs. This pocket-sized and romantic artinfluenced coastal town just 25 miles south of San Francisco features seven miles of secluded surfing beaches, a host of gourmet restaurants, hiking and riding trails, golf courses, and a picturesque main street—the kind of town with "romantic weekend" written all over it.

From December to March, hardcore surfers take on the big surf at the fabled Maverick’s Beach just south of the hotel. Okay, you don’t have to tackle those, you can just watch from your beach cruiser.

Arriving at the Beach House at around 4 in the afternoon, I was met with a friendly smile and a helpful clerk who directed me to my spacious second floor room overlooking the waters of the bay.

Traveling as much as I do, I am sometimes guilty of enjoying the hotel rooms too much, and seeing less of the destination. Hotel, restaurant, hotel, restaurant was too often the chorus. But how could I not immediately soak up this neighborhood. It was a sixhour drive, and I was ready for a power nap.

I changed clothes and surveyed the scene from the balcony. Just underneath me a bicycle path unwound. Skiffs and sailboats sat moored in the late afternoon sun. A mild breeze and a chair out on the deck, and in seconds, the day’s drive was long, long behind me. I spent the remaining afternoon light enjoying the view and trying not to snack before dinner, even though the hotel had provided a bottle of wine and some select cheeses.

Come sunset, I strolled just north a few steps to Sam’s Chowder House, a busy restaurant and fresh seafood market packed with tourists and locals. Recently remodeled and expanded, it sits along the bay, quiet this evening, with just a few sailboats plying the sleepy waters. The outside seating was beginning to fill up as the sun began its descent.

Chef Ross Browne of New Zealand has created a pretty standard menu for the establishment, but its not what you make, it’s how you make it—puffy battered fish and chips ($14.95), piles of fried calamari ($9.95); shrimp cocktail ($9.95); and a good half chicken under a brick ($17.95). It isn’t the East Coast chowder where the soup is so thick your spoon stands right up, its thinner with more clams, but still comforting and filling.

There are also Italian/West Coast specialties, such as Cioppino ($24), usually one of my favorites, but I was saving room for the Surf and Turf. Sam’s Chowder House is the kind of soothing seafood restaurant with a view that you hope you’ll find on your drive north. But it’s much more than that. I strolled home, satiated and happy.

An ocean breeze swirled through the room. I plugged in my computer, sat down to work, and wondered how the other half lived. The hotel’s 54 loft suites have been designed as open studios so that each has an ocean view. Rooms have that barefoot, casual cottage feel with separate bedroom and living areas, wood burning fireplaces, a wet bar with full sink, microwaves, refrigerators and a five-disc CD stereo system, as well as wireless Internet access on the house.

The standard rooms also include balconies, wood burning fireplaces, goose down comforters that defy you to climb out from underneath, daily newspaper, Aveda bath amenities, Two-line telephone with voice mail, wireless internet access, and complimentary continental breakfast completes the package.

Saturday morning found me strolling along Half Moon Bay’s Main Street trying to choose among the local restaurants. I went with Moonside Bakery and Café, finding a table along the window to watch the sidewalk parade. A chalkboard menu offers a wealth of Shameless Tourism by the Bay This Time, We Leave the Hotel Room Foothills Living 19 breakfast items along with coffee drinks and smoothies. Pancakes, the San Francisco Chronicle, coffee and orange juice. I was a happy traveler.

After strolling the town’s main street, buying t-shirts and coffee mugs from a street-side crafts fair, I got back in the car and drove north through Pacifica and past the tiny beach towns of Seal Cove, Moss Beach, and Montara on my way to San Francisco. (Does anyone call it "Baghdad by the Bay" anymore?)

On my second visit to the Bay area this year, I was bound and determined not to simply luxuriate in my hotel room.

The Hotel Maxwell in Union Square, my new home base, is one of a host of formerly matronly and now newly refurbished hotels owned by the Personality Hotels chain. (We had previously stayed at Personality’s decadent hipster palace, the Diva, earlier this year. The Maxwell is a world away from that.) The hotel features 28 junior suites, one parlor suite, 23 executive rooms, and 2 one-bedroom Penthouses with roof decks. Each guestroom features two phones, voicemail, clock radio, hairdryer, pay-per-view movies, and a writing desk, a signature Maxwell Hotel shopping bag, and an iron with board and electronic lock. Premium rooms also offer free In- Room High Speed Internet Access (If you’re trying to get online in a less than premium room, its dial-up time.), coffee makers, Frette velour bathrobes and CD players.

The 1908-era Maxwell has a newly redesigned lobby and guestrooms with theatrical and Art Deco elements. According to the website, the totally redone Maxwell is due to open is 2008. Though the desk clerk told me I had "one of the best rooms in the hotel," I think perhaps the renovation is still in progress. Newly decorated and tastefully if modestly furnished, the hotel is still a bit of a dowager with new lipstick. The bed was Ramada-quality, surprising given the Personality chain’s emphasis on style and vibe. Suffice to say the photos on the website don’t really match of the rooms we saw. But we like what the chain is doing with renovating older hotels with style, so we’re looking forward to the ’08 re-debut. Still, the service was a bit spotty, as the desk clerk on my arrival was friendly, gracious and extremely helpful. That evening, however, as I returned my dead remote control to the front desk, the night clerk first gave me the "I’m the only one here," routine, and then tossed the remote in a drawer, saying. "Someone will be by in an hour to fix your remote." (Someone never arrived, and I think that same clerk remembered as I was checking out. I could see the "oops" in his eyes. I let it go.)

On to the City. I spent some time strolling Union Square, watched children sing in the park, strolled the aisles of the HMV clothing store, and browsed a record shop. The weather was perfect, and the city was filled with noise, from cable car bells to street musicians to the animated conversations of people in the streets—a perfect cantata.

Then, furnished with a City Pass from the SF Convention and Visitor’s Bureau, I used it to take a crammed cable car to Fisherman’s Wharf with some people from Iowa (seriously), and then like a true tourist, considered buying some really cheap sweatshirts there.

I opted instead for the ubiquitous clam chowder-in-a-bowl at one of the numerous wharf side stands, and then got in line for the last Blue and Gold Fleet Bay Cruise of the afternoon.

In all my travels to San Francisco, I have never chosen something so touristy, but hey, when in Rome, do as the Roman tourists do.

The wind was blowing hard across the Bay, as we headed out and under the Golden Gate Bridge. Tourists held tight to their cameras and sunglasses, as seagulls escorted us across the waters. I was fascinated by the close up of Alcatraz (I know, I know. I’m on the late freight), as we listened to its history and the narrative voice of one man who actually once attempted to escape. (I think he had to make the narration as punishment.)

From the water, the San Francisco skyline seems magical, almost surreal and siren-like. You can’t decide which view is better—from the shore or from the water.

The tour is informative, fun, and well worth the cost for the memories alone. I’m sure there are countless pictures on computer screens, in wallets and in photo albums all over the world, taken from the seat next to mine.

The water on the bay was choppy, but nothing compared to my taxi ride back to my hotel. Ah, part of the experience, I guess.

Dinner was my favorite sushi place on Geary, then I opted for a movie on Van Ness.

Okay, perhaps it’s typical, it’s clichéd, but there is a reason why so many travel to this perfect tourist oasis. Whether the sublime pleasures of Half Moon Bay, or the cultural intensity of San Francisco, you can’t go wrong if you just head north.

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